Oaxaca 22 Dec

Before we return to Oaxaca, we stop to see the village church in Teotitlan delle Valle. The Spanish conquerors often built the local church on the site of an already sacred place. In this church, Nora explains, carved stones from the old temple were incorporated into the building itself. The designs are similar to those found at Mitla, a Zapotec site we will visit in a few days.

Wed 22 December

Nora not only runs the kitchen at Mis Recuerdos, she also offers cooking classes and guided excursions for guests if there is sufficient interest.

We've missed her Oaxaca shopping tour (although we manage to support the local economy quite well on our own), but we decide to join today's trip to Teotitlan delle Valle, the famous weaving village. Nine of us plus Nora and the driver fit comfortably into the rented van.

Teotitlan delle Valle is known for its Zapotec design wool rugs. Every family in town is in the business and we know from prior visits that it can be overwhelming. We hope to buy a rug on this trip and are confident that Nora can steer us to a good quality shop.

Zapotec Rug from The Humble Insect

	Grinding Cochineal Insects		The first sight that greets our eyes at The Humble Insect illustrates the derivation of the name. A woman is pulverizing cochineal insects on a stone metate, normally used for grinding corn. The insects provide a brilliant red dye, while bark, seeds, leaves, flowers, and moss are other sources of natural dyes. Adding lemon juice or honey creates additional color variations.

The wool first must be carded clean, a more difficult task than you might think, as we discover for ourselves. Then it is spun on a classic wheel, dyed, and finally woven into the intricately patterned rugs that hang on the walls around us.				Rosario Martinez shows Jane how to card the wool.

		Monkey Motif Rug
		Monkey Motif Rug

	Spinning the Yarn		Variations of the Dye		Caracol (Snail) Pattern
	Spinning the Yarn				Caracol (Snail) Pattern

			Our Rug: Still Life With Cats (photo by Robert Bloomberg)
	From the moment we walk into the studio my eye has been caught by one particular rug and nothing else I see is quite as magnificent. Bob agrees, and we are soon the owners of this 6X9 foot beauty, woven by Rosario Martinez, whose family has loomed rugs for generations.

	BUYING A RUG AND GETTING IT HOME We expected to pay for an expensive purchase like our rug with a credit card and were taken by surprise when cash was required. Fortunately, we had enough funds in our checking account, accessible by ATM. We could have had our rug shipped (at some expense), however, we opted to buy a duffel bag in the market and check it through as luggage. It took a while to find a duffel large enough, but otherwise all went well.


	Tonight is a special occasion. The Teatro Macedonio Alcalá, a turn-of-the-century opera house in the Baroque style, has reopened after several years of closure for refurbishing. There will be a Guelaguetza performance and we have tickets.				Teatro Macedonio Alcalá




		The Guelaguetza was an annual Zapotec ceremony to ask the gods for a plentiful harvest. Today it has evolved into a celebration that showcases the dress, music, and dance of the ethnic groups throughout the seven regions of Oaxaca. Click on any dance to see a short video with music. (Video by Marilyn Freund)

THEATER REVIEW

Attending a live performance at this theater is a sheer delight. The tickets were purchased the same day and were only US$9 at the box office (unreserved seating). The theater itself is a feast for the eyes and the performance is filled with exuberant good spirits, culminating in a finale in which half the audience is brought on stage to dance with the performers.

We've been to other Guelaguetza performances that were expensive and disappointing. This one, by the Compañia Estatal de Danza Costumbrista de Oaxaca, is fabulous!

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